The word "acid" has negative and even scary connotations that might put some people off exploring acid-based skincare products. But here's the thing: By eliminating acids, you're missing out on some of the most potent and transformative skincare ingredients on the market.
As scary as it sounds, acids are safe, effective, and, yes, they're somewhat misunderstood. It's time to figure it out with the help of cosmetic chemist Vanessa Thomas.
What is Exfoliating Acid? There are two types of peels: physical peels and chemical peels. Physical therapy involves manually removing dead skin cells and, if you use a skin-smoothing device like instant gratification, sometimes facial hair removal.
In contrast, chemical peels at the ingredient level break the bond between dead skin cells and skin and effectively remove them. Acids fall under the umbrella of chemical peels.
Our Buff It Out AHA Exfoliating Body Scrub offers the best of both worlds: it manually buffs skin with a pumice stone while gently dissolving dead skin cells with an AHA blend.
Comparison of AHAs and BHAs. In skin care, exfoliating acids fall into two categories: AHAs and BHAs, which stand for alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids (the names refer to their chemical makeup), respectively.
"AHAs are water-soluble and target the surface of the skin," says Thomas, while "oil-soluble BHAs penetrate deeper into the skin."
What are the benefits of exfoliating acid? The benefits of exfoliating acids are similar to those of any other exfoliant: brightening, smoothing skin texture, and unclog pores. "Both AHAs and BHAs have been found to reduce the amount of dead skin cells, allowing your skin to reflect more light and look more radiant.
This can also help reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation," says Thomas. Exfoliation also allows other skin care products to penetrate deeper into the skin and work more effectively and faster than other skin care products.
What's special about acids, however, is their multiple benefits: They also increase cell turnover, boost collagen production, and visibly lighten dark spots and uneven skin tone.
What are AHAs? AHAs, commonly found in fruit, milk, and sugar cane, "slough off dead skin cells on the surface of the skin to reveal fresh skin cells underneath," says Thomas.
While efficacy depends on the specific acid used, AHAs are often referred to as acids that help treat hyperpigmentation, smooth uneven skin, and soften signs of aging such as dull skin tone and fine lines. Here are the types of AHAs you'll typically find in skin care products:
glycolic acid. Derived from fruit and sugar cane, glycolic acid is an ingredient in skincare that treats and reverses the visible signs of aging. It is great for fighting hyperpigmentation. It's also a popular ingredient for improving skin texture and tone. As such, it is often found in products for the prevention of skin aging (such as our Instant Peeling Mask).
lactic acid. The acid, of course, is extracted from milk (though it's usually made in a lab, says Thomas) and is used to "exfoliate, lighten dark spots, and improve fine lines and wrinkles." Lactic acid is one of the gentlest, most non-irritating AHAs available - perfect for sensitive skin or those who just dipped their toes in an acid pool.
In fact, this acid is considered a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin. For these reasons, we've included it in our "shortcuts" designed for sensitive skin types. citric acid. Citric acid is likely (and is) reminiscent of lemons, oranges, and grapefruit, since it's found in citrus fruits.
However, in skin care, citric acid is often derived from corn or sugar beets. It is primarily used to treat acne, sun damage, and superficial hyperpigmentation problems (such as post-acne spots). It can also be used as a natural preservative in skin care products.
Kojic acid. This AHA was discovered in Japan (and is still popular today). Kojic acid, derived from mushrooms and other fungi, "whitens by preventing the production of tyrosine, the amino acid responsible for the production of melanin."
It can also act as an antioxidant in skin care products, helping to protect the skin from future s damage. You can find it blended with other AHAs in our Daily Brightening Toner.
mandelic acid. While mandelic acid is less common than glycolic, lactic, and citric acids, it can be just as effective (especially in people with acne) due to its antibacterial properties. Since it takes longer to penetrate the skin, it is less likely to irritate sensitive skin.
What are BHAs? Beta-hydroxy acids, on the other hand, are known to treat acne because of their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Most importantly, this type of acid acts at the pore level (which is where cracks form). Salicylic acid can also "slow down the production of oil, or sebum," Thomas adds. Good for oily skin types.
Salicylic acid. The most abundant BHA is salicylic acid, which is extracted from willow bark. It penetrates deep into the sebaceous glands, making it ideal for acne-prone and oily skin. It actually dissolves excess sebum and other pore-clogging substances, leaving skin clear and radiant.
As such, you may find this ingredient in acne-fighting products like our Acne Calming Cleanser and Acne Control Body Mist. other types of acid. What about tranexamic acid and azelaic acid? We know it's confusing, but despite their names, these two acids don't fall into the AHA or BHA categories.
Tranexamic acid is derived from essential amino acids and is known for its whitening properties. Similar to kojic acid, it inhibits the production of melanin and prevents the formation of dark spots. In our dark spot gel, you'll find kojic acid and tranexamic acid formulated together.
It's so effective that many dermatologists recommend it for treating melasma. If you're struggling with a "pregnancy mask," it's also safe and good for pregnancy. Azelaic acid, "derived from yeast and found naturally on the skin," is technically a dicarboxylic acid.
It has a similar configuration file to AHA and can be used in conjunction with them. “Azelaic acid is an FDA-approved skin care ingredient used topically to treat acne and rosacea, often in creams and cleansers. The acid has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce rosacea and redness.
Although azelaic acid is an active ingredient, yet it is gentle on the skin and safe for all skin types.
Can acids be mixed and combined? Combinations of acids are very beneficial—yes, very safe—because you can treat different skin conditions at the same time.
Combining multiple acids in a facial scrub or mask provides a one-stop solution for skin-sensitive concerns ranging from acne, dark spots, dryness, and redness to eczema and rosacea. If you are sensitive, you can do a patch test first and test the area to make sure the formula is right for you.
إرسال تعليق