Guaranteed smoother, clearer and more radiant skin. Regular exfoliation is necessary for healthy, clear, glowing skin. Yes, cleansing and moisturizing are important, too, but neither works optimally unless the inevitable buildup of dead skin cells and dirt is removed.
There are two options for exfoliation: physical exfoliation, using tools or a granular scrub to remove dead skin cells, or chemical exfoliation. "Chemical peels break down the 'glue' that holds skin cells together.
When the outermost layer of old skin cells sloughs off, new skin appears." Blair Murphy-Rose, Board Director, New York Laser and Skin Surgery Center Certified Dermatologist.
Murphy-Rose says all skin types can use chemical peels to smooth skin, reduce dullness, brighten skin tone and improve the appearance of pores. However, there are different types and strengths. We explain it below.
What types of chemical peels are there? Rose says there are three main categories of chemical peels: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs). You can often find recipes that include acids from multiple categories. Here are the main differences between them:
Alpha-hydroxy acid: AHAs include glycolic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid and natural fruit acids. Ross says these ingredients are best for treating hyperpigmentation and fighting signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles.
All skin types can incorporate AHAs into their routine; the higher the percentage, the more powerful the exfoliation (over-the-counter acids can range in concentration from 5 to 30 percent, but more is not necessarily better, and the pH of the product will vary affecting its roughness).
Lactic acid provides the most moisture, making it especially suitable for dry skin. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule and therefore penetrates the deepest, also stimulating collagen production.
Often, chemical peels contain a mixture of these AHAs because they work well together to make the formula more hydrating, stable, less irritating, or better able to fight free radicals.
Beta-hydroxy acid: Salicylic acid is the star among beta hydroxy acids and is "the only acid that can penetrate deep into pores to cleanse them and reduce sebum buildup," says Ross.
That's why it's an ideal exfoliant for oily and acne-prone skin types; it also has anti-inflammatory properties and soothes redness and irritation.
Polyhydroxy acid: This category offers the gentlest chemical peels and is ideal for sensitive skin. “Common PHAs include gluconolactone, lactobionic acid and galactose,” says Rose.
They are relatives of alpha hydroxy acids and have a larger molecular size so they do not penetrate or irritate the skin. “PHA also has antioxidant and moisturizing properties,” says Rose.
How to Choose a Chemical Peel: Chemical peels come in many forms, from rinse-off and leave-on masks to serums and cleansers. You can even find options for body and scalp exfoliation.
"Choosing between a toner, serum or cleanser is a matter of personal preference, but keep in mind that products that stay on the skin longer will have a stronger effect than rinse-off cleansers because the acids won't remain on the skin on.
Skin "lasts longer," says Ross. To help you choose a formula, we've selected the best chemical peels for every skin type and skin concern.
1. Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-one AHA Lactic Acid Treatment: Although it is an exfoliating treatment, it has the consistency of a hydrating serum.
Over time, lactic acid helps improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of pores and fine lines. It also helps lighten hyperpigmentation thanks to lemongrass.
2. Paula's Choice Perfect Skin 2% BHA Peel: With this liquid exfoliation, you're almost guaranteed to have brighter, clearer, and more even skin. It contains salicylic acid to exfoliate and unclog pores, green tea to soothe skin, and methylpropylene glycol to hydrate and restore radiance.
3. Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% exfoliating solution: TikTok is booming for a reason. In addition to its affordable price and attractive shades, this blend of lactic, glycolic, and salicylic acids evens out skin tone and texture. Leave on for 10 minutes, then rinse.
4. CeraVe SA Shower Gel: This drugstore body wash contains exfoliating salicylic acid and ceramides to protect the skin barrier, keeping skin from the neck down glowing, smooth, and acne-free. 5. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift 12% Pure Vitamin C + E + Salicylic Acid Serum
This 2023 Beauty O-Ward winner deserves a spot in your morning routine because it brightens skin, reduces fine lines, fights pollutants and promotes smooth skin texture.
6. Tatcha Texture Tonic
Use this formula after cleansing to minimize the appearance of uneven texture. It contains AHAs to exfoliate and brighten, as well as niacinamide and mugwort to fight redness and enlarged pores.
7. Dr. Bowe Beauty Exfoliation Party
Use this exfoliating serum at night and wake up to visibly brighter, smoother, more refined skin. It contains a potent blend of AHAs, PHAs, and BHAs, but is cruelty-free.
8. Aveeno Calm + Restore Nourishing PHA Facial Scrub
If you have very sensitive skin, try this PHA formula to exfoliate without damaging your skin barrier. It's gentle enough for daily use and contains oat oil to keep your skin hydrated rather than dry.
9. SkinBetter Science Intensive AlphaRet Night Cream
Although the idea of mixing retinol and acid sounds like a nightmare for sensitive skin, this formula gets the job done with little to no irritation. “It contains a clever combination of hydroxy acids and a uniquely formulated form of vitamin A,” says Rose. "It's a dermatologist favorite because it increases collagen production, fights fine lines, and improves skin tone and texture."
10. Shani Darden Skin Care Lactic AHA Exfoliating Serum
This gentle formula contains AHA (lactic acid) and PHA (gluconolactone) to refine, brighten and retexture skin. Those with sensitive skin will love the soothing complex of hyaluronic acid, aloe vera juice and green tea extract.
11. Ingrown Hair Emergency Beauty Pads with BHA and AHA
These exfoliating pads, enriched with ethanol and salicylic acid, prevent annoying ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Skin feels smoother and less irritated after each use.
12. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum
This serum is packed with exfoliating acids, including salicylic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid. It works overnight to leave skin clear and radiant.
13. St. Ives Apricot Acid Exfoliating Toner
St. Ives recently launched a line of exfoliating toners for those who don't like or can't tolerate the brand's physical exfoliants. They're available in rose, apricot and unscented, each suitable for different skin types. This product is suitable for combination skin and contains glycolic acid to exfoliate dead skin cells.
14. Garnier Micellar Skin Active Gentle Exfoliating Water
Your regular makeup remover micellar water just got an upgrade. The formula contains 1% PHA and glycolic acid to effectively remove makeup and dirt while also gently exfoliating for a deeper cleanse. You can use it as a makeup remover, cleanser or toner.
15. ZitSticka PRESS REFRESH Exfoliating Mask
Enriched with glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids, these refreshing masks exfoliate and moisturize your skin at the same time. They're perfect if you're feeling like your skin is breaking out and need a break.
16. Act+Acre Cold Treatment Scalp Renewal Treatment
The skin on your scalp also needs exfoliation; this helps remove buildup and promotes healthy hair growth. This salicylic acid-based formula soothes irritation and itchiness, balances oil production, and helps treat dandruff and psoriasis.
17. TULA Skincare Biodegradable Toner Pads
These fast-acting pads contain exfoliating lactic acid as well as prebiotic and prebiotic extracts to improve the look and feel of skin, helping to balance and nourish it. They also contain niacinamide, which reduces and balances sebum production.
18. Glytone Gentle Gel Cleanser
Rose calls this one of her favorite hydroxy acid cleansers. It contains glycolic acid and is gentle enough for daily use.
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